Katmai National Park July 12-16

I am just back from a sensational, extended weekend. I flew to the Alaska Peninsula to visit my most favorite place, Katmai National Park, where I was a ranger in 2002, 2003 and 2004.
It has been 7 years since I worked there, but there has been a magnetic pull for me to return since the day I (sadly) left.

It is hard to explain how enthralled I am here.....bears wander in search of salmon, the pumice beach along Naknek Lake buzzes with float planes landing and leaving, thick schools of salmon churn in the water, slowly heading upstream to spawn, the woods contain miles of colorful flowers and berries, but best for me, is the Valley of 10,000 Smokes.

View of volcanic ash from Ukak Falls

Mysterious Designs upon the ash sculpted by wind, rain, and falling rock



I find the Valley so remarkable, powerful and alive with wicked beauty. I love wandering along the ashflow, noticing a lone mountain harebell, an alder growing in a low spiral, a swooping swallow in search of bugs. People have died falling into the Lethe River- I honor them as I walk, imagining the terror they felt as they were pulled away and down into the cold ashy water. I am sorry for their families, who will never see them again....no one has ever been found who fell into the Lethe.

There was bear and wolf sign, moose droppings, a small dead mouse with tiny, delicate hands and feet..... I hiked around to familiar places and watched as the Lethe River fused with Knife Creek, forming the Ukak River.

Confluence

At night, the wind swept through, searing and furious. I hid in my tent which rattled and shook for hours, until the wind subsided, as rapidly as it began. The moon was full and glowing over Mt. Mageik, one of the 14 active glaciated volcanoes surrounding the ashflow. I gaped wild with awe. In minutes, the fog covered it and it disappeared.

                                                                        Mt Mageik

 

It warmed my heart to spend time with Imes, who began working the same year I did. He is a "Bear Technician" and full of jokes and funny stories about the trials and tribulations of managing people around great Alaskan brown bears. We shared memories and laughter, salmon and lake trout.

I hope to return and work at Brooks Camp again. I feel unfinished there, and long to spend more days, walking along the mountains of volcanic ash, or the pumice filled beaches, dodging bears, laughing over an Alaskan amber, watching the dynamic landscape and breath-taking seasons of change.

                                                           Brooks Lodge